Today we ate lunch at an old favourite, a Thai-themed restaurant in Exeter. When it opened some years ago the attractions included an outstanding chef, starched white linen and mature (professional) staff. Having witness decades of my favourite restaurants crash and burn, however, I could have written its story. They’re hanging in there but their days are numbered; chef, linen and staff are long gone, and the food has reverted to something from the 1970s. Anytime soon the establishment will morph into a sea of Formica, and university students will be eating fried rice with plastic cutlery.