Italians turn back the culinary clock, reports the Guardian. Italians facing a long, hard winter with less cash to spend in the supermarket owing to the economic crisis are being encouraged to rediscover the cheap, traditional recipes of their ancestors. Soups made with old bread and even pig's lungs are unlikely to appear on the menu of Michelin-starred Italian restaurants in London, New York or even Rome, but they are being touted as the nation's real cooking, made at a fraction of the price of many modern dishes.
I recall ‘lights’ were still a principal feature of many a butcher’s windows back in the ’70s. Over the years, however, as our relative affluence improved, so our culinary tastes. Then gradually – and popularised in part by television cooks (and Michelin-starred Italian restaurants) – some of the old cuts returned to fashion. It would be difficult, for instance, to ignore that most ubiquitous of gastro pub favourites: belly draft, aka pork belly. That said...I suspect times will need to become a lot tougher for lung soup to return to general use.